San Thome Cathedral Basilica in Chennai is one of the holiest Christian sites in the world. It stands upon the tomb of St Thomas the Apostle, one of the twelve close followers of Jesus Christ.
Saint Thomas and His Mission in India
St. Thomas initially refused to believe that Jesus had risen from the dead. In the Bible, in the Gospel of John (John 20:24–29), Thomas said, “Unless I see the mark of the nails in his hands and put my finger into the nail marks, I will not believe.” When Jesus later appeared to him, Thomas touched his wounds and exclaimed, “My Lord and my God!”
This moment of transformation from doubt to faith earned him both the nickname Doubting Thomas and the honour of being remembered as a symbol of honest faith. His journey from doubt to belief continues to inspire millions around the world.
St Thomas, also known as Didymus (meaning “the Twin”), came to India in 52 A.D. to preach the message of Christ. According to early Christian writings such as The Acts of Thomas and The Teaching of the Apostles, he first landed at Kodungallur (Cranganore), an ancient port on the Malabar Coast in present-day Kerala, where he began his mission of evangelisation.
Tradition says that St Thomas established seven and a half churches in Kerala — at Kodungallur (Cranganore), Palayur, Paravur, Kokkamangalam, Niranam, Nilackal (Chayal), Kollam (Quilon), and a “half church” at Thiruvithamcode in Kanyakumari district. These early communities came to be known as the Syrian Christians or St Thomas Christians of Kerala, who proudly trace their faith back to the Apostle himself.
After many years of preaching in the west, St Thomas travelled across the eastern regions of India, spreading the Gospel as far as Chennai (then Mylapore). It was here, near the Little Mount cave in Saidapet, that he prayed and taught in secret. It is also said that from this cave, he went out to the people and preached the Gospel. He stayed in this cave and prayed earnestly, and inside the cave there is a stone bearing the marks of his hands, believed to have been imprinted while he knelt in prayer.
Later, he was martyred by spearing on St Thomas Mount in 72 A.D., and his followers buried him at Mylapore, the sacred site where San Thome Cathedral now stands.
According to the Acts of Thomas (3rd century), St Thomas was martyred in India, and his remains were later moved to Edessa. In A.D. 232, Syrian Christians transferred his relics to Edessa (modern-day Şanlıurfa, Turkey). Later, some relics were relocated to Chios, Greece, and eventually to Ortona, Italy, where they are enshrined today in the Basilica of St Thomas the Apostle.
The Holy Ground – The Tomb of St Thomas
This Cathedral stands upon holy ground, for it contains the tomb of one of Christ’s twelve Apostles. The smaller of its two towers is built exactly above the tomb. Within the underground chapel, the relics of St Thomas are enshrined. A statue of the Apostle in a reclining posture lies above the tomb, covered by glass, and a marble altar is erected over it. Nearby is a well of holy water, believed to have been blessed and used by St Thomas himself.
According to Santhome Church's website, historical records mention that the tomb was opened four times:
1. The first time, as noted by St Gregory of Tours, was to heal the son of a certain King Raja Mahadevan.
2. The second opening occurred between 1222 and 1225, when most of the relics were taken to Ortona, Italy, where they remain to this day.
3. The third took place in 1523, when the Portuguese rebuilt the ruined church.
4. The fourth was in 1729, when Bishop Dom José Pinharno opened the tomb to distribute blessed sand to pilgrims. On that occasion, a brilliant light was said to have emanated from the tomb.
By the 6th century, a European traveller named Theodore described the San Thome church as “a church of striking dimensions, elaborately adorned and designed.” In 883 A.D., King Alfred of England sent a group of pilgrims to this shrine, and by the 13th century, explorers such as Marco Polo wrote of its grandeur.
When the Portuguese arrived at Mylapore in 1517, they found the ancient church mostly in ruins, except for the small tomb chapel. They rebuilt it in 1523, and it became a parish the following year. The great missionary St Francis Xavier, whose body is enshrined in Goa, stayed here in 1545 for four months, praying before the statue of Our Lady of Mylapore before leaving for his mission to Japan.
After centuries of wear, the Portuguese structure was replaced by the British-built cathedral in 1893, under Bishop Henrique José Reed da Silva. The present church, designed in Neo-Gothic style, was constructed carefully so that the smaller tower stands directly over the tomb of the Apostle.
In 1956, Pope Pius XII elevated San Thome to the status of a Minor Basilica, recognising it as one of only three churches in the world built directly over the tomb of an Apostle of Christ — the others being St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St James’ in Compostela, Spain (Santiago de Compostela).
Within the Basilica complex, there is a beautiful shrine dedicated to Our Lady of Mylapore (Maylai Madha). The statue, venerated by devotees from all faiths, is believed to have been brought by the Portuguese in the 16th century. The Blessed Virgin is honoured as the Patroness of Mylapore, and the annual feast in her honour draws large crowds of pilgrims and visitors.
At the ground level, beneath the cathedral, lies a small underground museum that preserves priceless artefacts linked to St Thomas and the early history of San Thome. The museum displays the lance head that pierced St Thomas, a rare fragment of his bone, his stone receptacle, and a wooden chair said to have been used by the Apostle. Also displayed are ancient monograms, Persian medallions, multilingual inscriptions, St Thomas coins, and paintings on canvas. Each exhibit is accompanied by a detailed explanatory plaque. Above the museum, there is a mini theatre where visitors can watch a short video on the life of St Thomas and the history of the Basilica.
Don’t forget to visit these two – the shrine of Maylai Madha and the underground museum – to experience the spiritual and historical depth of San Thome Cathedral.
A Place of Pilgrimage and Faith
For nearly two millennia, countless pilgrims have visited this holy site — from kings and explorers to ordinary men and women of faith. Pope John Paul II, during his historic visit to India in 1986, came to this Basilica and prayed at the Apostle’s tomb — the first ever papal visit to India.
Every year, on 3rd July, special Masses are celebrated in honour of St Thomas, drawing devotees from all parts of India and abroad.
Other Sacred Sites in Chennai
Two other places in Chennai are closely linked with the Apostle:
St Thomas Mount, where he was martyred.
Little Mount or Thomas Cave, near Saidapet, where he prayed, stayed, and from where he preached the Gospel.
Conclusion
San Thome Cathedral Basilica is not merely a historical monument; it is a living witness to the Apostle’s faith, courage, and mission. It stands as a timeless reminder that Christianity in India is not imported from the West, but germinated from Indian soil, through the life, work, and martyrdom of St Thomas the Apostle.
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Date of visit: 25.02.2023
Bruce K. Thangkhal
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